The Everglades National Park, a sprawling and enigmatic landscape, has long fascinated adventurers and nature enthusiasts alike. Known for its intricate waterways, dense mangroves, and abundant wildlife, the Everglades presents both breathtaking beauty and formidable challenges. As an adventurer with a penchant for thrilling expeditions, I decided to tackle one of the park's most demanding routes: the 100 miles wilderness waterway. Armed with minimal resources and a supply of beef jerky, I set out on an 11-day kayaking journey that would test my limits and immerse me in the raw, untamed heart of the Everglades. Starting from the northern edge and paddling all the way to the southern tip, this trip promised to be the ultimate adventure.
This is my day-by-day account of that unforgettable adventure, filled with close encounters with alligators and pythons, navigational trials, and moments of serene beauty. Join me as I recount the highs and lows of surviving the wild, one paddle stroke at a time.
Day 1: Setting Off
The early morning sunbathed the Everglades in a golden hue as I launched my kayak into the waters of the 100 miles wilderness waterway from the northern edge. Let me be honest, there is no amount of preparation that can get you ready to survive a trip like this one, so I had trust my instincts of only taking the necessaries: A water bottle with a filtering device, an axe, a small camera with two lenses and 2 extra batteries, my Garmin GPS/satellite device, a small tent, a mosquito mesh, and extra set of clothes, a deodorant, detailed nautical charts for each section of the journey, a compass, and enough beef jerky for every meal of those 11 days.
With the soft whispers of nature and the gentle splash of my paddle, I embarked on what I knew would be an unforgettable journey. The Everglades, with its lush mangroves and teeming wildlife, promised both beauty and danger. My kayak was packed, and I felt prepared, excited, and a bit apprehensive.
As the day progressed, I encountered a variety of wildlife. Birds of all colors and sizes swooped around, their calls echoing through the stillness. Fish darted beneath the surface, and occasionally, I spotted the glint of an alligator's eye peering from the water.
The first few miles were a tranquil introduction to the journey ahead. The water was calm, and I moved through it with relative ease. I took my time, absorbing the beauty of the surroundings. Tall cypress trees lined the banks, their roots twisted into intricate designs by years of water flow. Egrets and herons stood sentinel-like, barely acknowledging my presence as I glided past.
By midday, the sun was high, and the temperature had risen significantly. I found a shaded spot to take a break, sipping water and munching on beef jerky. I couldn't help but marvel at the stillness of the Everglades. Despite the challenges I knew lay ahead, there was a peacefulness here that was hard to find anywhere else.
In the late afternoon, I encountered my first up close alligator. It was sunning itself on a small bank, and as I passed by, it slipped into the water with a splash. My heart raced as I realized how close it had been. I reminded myself to stay alert—this was their territory, after all.
As the sun began to set, I started looking for a place to set up camp. I found a small island that looked promising. After securing my kayak, I set up my tent and prepared for the night. The sounds of the Everglades filled the air—croaking frogs, chirping insects, and the distant call of a bird. As I lay in my tent, I felt a mix of excitement and trepidation for the days ahead. The first night was uneventful, with the sounds of the Everglades lulling me into a deep sleep. At the beginning, every single sound was alarming, but after a while, that fear and danger become your trip partners and you give up yourself to sleep.
Day 2: Into the Wilderness
Day two started smoothly. The water was calm, and the weather was perfect for kayaking. I ventured deeper into the wilderness, feeling more connected with the environment around me. The mangrove tunnels were both mesmerizing and eerie, their twisted roots creating natural archways that I had to navigate carefully.
The further I paddled, the more isolated I felt. The signs of human presence became fewer and farther between. It was just me and the Everglades, a vast expanse of wilderness that stretched out in all directions. The solitude was both exhilarating and daunting.
Midday, I had my second close encounter with an alligator. It was a massive beast, easily ten feet long, basking on a small mud flat. I slowed my paddling to avoid startling it, but as I drew closer, it turned its head to watch me. Our eyes locked, and for a moment, I felt a primal connection to this ancient creature. With a sudden splash, it slid into the water and disappeared. My heart was pounding, but I couldn't help but smile. This was what I'd come for—the raw, unfiltered experience of nature. Fernando 2 - 0 Alligators.
In the afternoon, I found a chickee to camp on—a wooden platform built over the water, providing a safe and dry spot for campers. It was a welcome change from the ground camping. The chickee offered a bit of elevation and security from the creatures that roamed the ground below.
As I set up camp, I took some time to appreciate my surroundings. The platform was surrounded by water on all sides, offering a panoramic view of the Everglades. I watched the sunset, the sky turning brilliant shades of orange and pink. As darkness fell, the stars emerged, more vivid than I'd ever seen them. The isolation of the Everglades meant there was no light pollution, and the night sky was a breathtaking tapestry of constellations.
That night, I lay in my tent, listening to the sounds of the Everglades. The croaking of frogs, the distant call of an owl, and the occasional splash of a fish breaking the surface. It was a symphony of nature, a reminder of the wild beauty that surrounded me.
Day 3: Navigational Challenges
The third day brought its own set of challenges. The waterways were becoming more intricate, and I found myself having to navigate through narrow passages and dense vegetation. My nautical map, GPS, and compass were my best friends, guiding me through the labyrinth of the Everglades.
The morning was spent paddling through a series of mangrove tunnels. These natural archways were both beautiful and treacherous. The roots of the mangroves created a maze-like network that was easy to get lost in. I had to stay focused, constantly checking my bearings to ensure I was heading in the right direction.
Around noon, I spotted a python slithering across a fallen log. It was massive, its scales shimmering in the sunlight. I watched in awe and slight fear, knowing that these creatures were just as dangerous as the alligators. Keeping a safe distance, I continued paddling, more aware than ever of my surroundings.
Navigating through the dense mangroves was exhausting. The narrow channels meant I had to constantly maneuver my kayak to avoid getting stuck. The sun was high and the heat intense, making the physical exertion even more taxing. I took frequent breaks to hydrate and refuel with beef jerky, each pause giving me a chance to appreciate the beauty around me.
In the late afternoon, I came across my next chickee to camp for the night. The elevated platform provided a welcome respite from the day's challenges. I set up my tent and took a moment to enjoy the view. The Everglades stretched out in all directions, a vast sea of green dotted with patches of open water.
As the sun set, the sky turned a deep shade of blue, and the stars began to appear. I sat on the edge of the chickee, feet dangling over the water, and watched the night unfold. The sounds of the Everglades were all around me, a constant reminder of the wildness of this place.
That night, I lay in my tent, feeling a deep sense of satisfaction. The challenges of the day had been tough, but I'd overcome them. The Everglades were testing me, pushing me to my limits, but I was determined to see this journey through.
Day 4: Stranded at Low Tide
Day four was the most harrowing yet. I had miscalculated the tides and found myself stranded in a shallow area as the water receded. My kayak was stuck, and there was no way to move it until the tide came back in. To make matters worse, I was alarmingly close to a group of alligators.
They watched me with predatory eyes, lurking just beyond the mud flats. I could feel their presence, every nerve in my body on high alert. The sun beat down mercilessly, and I had to ration my water carefully. My beef jerky provided some comfort, but I was acutely aware of the danger surrounding me.
For hours, I remained vigilant, my kayak a flimsy barrier between me and the waiting predators. At one point, a particularly bold alligator approached, its eyes locked onto mine. I grabbed my paddle, ready to defend myself if necessary. The standoff lasted what felt like an eternity, but eventually, the tide began to rise.
As soon as there was enough water, I freed my kayak and first walked and then paddled away as fast as I could. The adrenaline rush was unlike anything I'd ever experienced, and it took hours for my heart rate to return to normal. Exhausted, I paddled to the spot where I had planned to camp for the night. However, upon arrival, I discovered it was infested with alligators, likely attracted by garbage left behind by a previous visitor. Forced to change plans, I had no choice but to sleep in my kayak, which offered little protection against the swarms of mosquitoes that descended upon me. The night was long and miserable, but I managed to get some rest despite the constant buzzing and biting.
The mosquitoes were relentless, their high-pitched whine a constant background noise. Despite my best efforts to cover up, they found every exposed bit of skin. I spent the night swatting at them, trying to find a position that offered some relief. It was a stark reminder of the harsh realities of the Everglades, a place of both incredible beauty and relentless discomfort.
Day 5: A Moment of Peace
After the intensity of the previous day, day five was a welcome reprieve. The tides were in my favor, and I made good progress through the waterway. The scenery was breathtaking, with lush greenery and vibrant wildlife at every turn.
The day's paddling was smooth and uneventful, a much-needed break from the challenges of the previous days. I took my time, savoring the peace and quiet of the Everglades. The water was calm, the sun warm on my back. I felt a deep sense of contentment, a connection to the natural world that was hard to find in everyday life.
In the late afternoon, I found a small island to camp on. The ground was soft and sandy, a perfect spot to set up my tent. I spent the evening exploring the island, taking in the sights and sounds of the Everglades. I watched the sunset, the sky turning brilliant shades of orange and pink. As darkness fell, the stars emerged, more vivid than I'd ever seen them. The isolation of the Everglades meant there was no light pollution, and the night sky was a breathtaking tapestry of constellations.
That night, I lay in my tent, feeling a deep sense of peace. The challenges of the Everglades were constant, but so were the rewards. The beauty of this wild place was unmatched, and I was beginning to understand why so many adventurers were drawn to it.
Day 6: Midway Point and Fever
Reaching the midway point of my journey, I felt a mix of exhaustion and exhilaration. The physical demands of paddling and navigating were taking their toll, but the experiences were worth every ache and pain.
The waterway opened up into a larger bay, and I took the opportunity to explore some of the smaller islands. Each one had its own unique ecosystem, and I marveled at the diversity of life in the Everglades.
However, as the day wore on, I began to feel unwell. By late afternoon, I was burning with a high fever. My body ached, and every paddle stroke felt like a monumental effort. I found a small, shaded cove to rest, hoping the fever would pass. I forced myself to stay hydrated and nibble on beef jerky for energy, but the fever left me weak and disoriented.
That evening, I encountered another python, this one even larger than the first. It was coiled around a tree branch, watching me with unblinking eyes. Despite my fever, I kept my distance, snapping a few photos before moving on. The Everglades were full of surprises, and I knew I had to stay on my toes, even in my weakened state.
Finding a place to camp while feverish was a daunting task. I was exhausted and every movement felt like a struggle. I came across the next chickee, my refuge for the night. The elevated platform was a blessing, providing a safe and dry spot to rest. I set up my tent and collapsed inside, shivering despite the heat.
The night was long and restless. My fever spiked and I found myself in a haze of dreams and reality, the sounds of the Everglades blending into a surreal symphony. I could hear the distant call of an owl, the splash of fish, and the rustling of leaves. Despite my fever, I found a strange comfort in the sounds of nature. It was a reminder that I was part of something much larger than myself.
Day 7: A Storm Approaches
The seventh day brought a change in weather. Dark clouds gathered on the horizon, and the air was thick with humidity. I paddled steadily, hoping to find a safe place to wait out the impending storm.
By mid-afternoon, the wind had picked up, and the first drops of rain began to fall. I found a sheltered cove and set up camp, securing my kayak and gear as best as I could. The storm hit with a fury, lashing rain and howling winds battering my tent.
It was a long, sleepless night, but I remained dry and safe. The Everglades were relentless, and I knew that nature's fury was something I had to respect. By morning, the storm had passed, leaving a fresh, clean scent in the air.
The storm was a powerful reminder of the raw power of nature. The wind howled and the rain pounded down, turning the Everglades into a swirling maelstrom. I huddled in my tent, feeling both awe and fear at the force of the storm. Despite the discomfort, there was a certain beauty in the chaos, a reminder of the untamed spirit of the Everglades.
Day 8: Wildlife Encounters
When the storm finally passed, I emerged from my tent to find the world transformed. The air was cool and crisp, the sky a brilliant blue. The rain had washed everything clean, leaving a fresh, earthy scent in the air. I felt a renewed sense of energy, ready to tackle whatever challenges lay ahead.
With the storm behind me, I continued my journey with renewed vigor. The wildlife seemed more active after the rain, and I encountered several interesting creatures throughout the day.
A family of otters played near the shore, diving and frolicking in the water. They were a joy to watch, their playful antics a reminder of the lighter side of nature. Later, I spotted a majestic hawk soaring overhead, its sharp eyes scanning the water for prey.
As the day came to a close, I found a secluded spot to camp. The ever-present threat of alligators and pythons was still there, but I was becoming more adept at recognizing the signs and staying safe. I changed the designated camping place for the same reason. I never leave any garbage behind but previous visitors did it and with that they were putting my life in danger.
That night, I lay in my tent, feeling a deep sense of satisfaction. The challenges of the day had been tough, but I'd overcome them. The Everglades were testing me, pushing me to my limits, but I was determined to see this journey through.
Day 9: Physical and Mental Fatigue
By day nine, the physical and mental fatigue was beginning to set in. My muscles ached, and my mind was weary from constant vigilance. The Everglades were taking their toll, but I was determined to see this journey through.
I pushed on, taking short breaks to rest and refuel with beef jerky and water. The scenery was as stunning as ever, but I found it harder to appreciate as exhaustion set in. I reminded myself that the end was in sight, and that kept me going.
Navigating through the dense mangroves was exhausting. The narrow channels meant I had to constantly maneuver my kayak to avoid getting stuck. The sun was high and the heat intense, making the physical exertion even more taxing. I took frequent breaks to hydrate and refuel with beef jerky, each pause giving me a chance to appreciate the beauty around me.
In the late afternoon, I came across the next chickee for the night. The elevated platform provided a welcome respite from the day's challenges. My mind was feeling all the exhaustion and being in the chickee put me at easy. It is hard to have proper rest when camping on the ground because alligators can appear from any direction. I slept always hugging my axe for that same reason.
As the sun set, the sky turned a deep shade of blue, and the stars began to appear. I sat on the edge of the chickee, feet dangling over the water, and watched the night unfold. The sounds of the Everglades were all around me, a constant reminder of the wildness of this place. But just when I was starting to relax, I saw an alligator and understood that it was a mistake. I was an outsider in the Everglades, and one mistake could mean the end of my life.
Day 10: The Final Stretch
With just two days left, I felt a surge of determination. The waterways were becoming more familiar, and I knew I was on the home stretch. The thought of completing the 100 miles wilderness waterway filled me with a sense of pride and accomplishment.
The day passed smoothly, with few challenges and plenty of beautiful sights. I encountered a large group of herons, their graceful movements captivating. The Everglades continued to surprise and delight, even as my journey neared its end.
The final day's paddling was a mix of emotions. I felt a sense of accomplishment and pride, knowing I was close to completing the journey. At the same time, there was a sadness at the thought of leaving the Everglades. This wild, untamed place had become a part of me, and I knew I would miss it.
As I paddled, I reflected on the challenges and triumphs of the past ten days. The encounters with alligators and pythons, the stormy nights, and the moments of serene beauty had all shaped this incredible adventure. Each day had brought new challenges and new rewards, and I felt a deep sense of gratitude for the experience.
Day 11: Triumph and Reflection
The final day of my journey dawned bright and clear. I felt a mix of excitement and sadness as I packed up my camp for the last time. The Everglades had become a part of me, and I knew I would miss the wild beauty and the sense of freedom it offered.
As I paddled the last few miles, I reflected on the challenges I'd faced and the lessons I'd learned. The encounters with alligators and pythons, the stormy nights, and the moments of sheer wonder had all shaped this incredible adventure.
Reaching the end of the 100 miles wilderness waterway was a triumphant moment. I pulled my kayak onto the Flamingo Visitor Center feeling a sense of accomplishment unlike anything I'd ever experienced. The Everglades had tested me in every way possible, but I had emerged stronger and more resilient.
As I sat there, munching on my last piece of beef jerky, I knew that this journey would stay with me forever. The Everglades had challenged me, inspired me, and ultimately, changed me.
I won.
